Monte Gallo Secrets: A Half-Day Hike from Mondello to Semaforo Borbonico
High above Mondello Bay stands the Semaforo Borbonico dell’Eremita — a 19th-century Bourbon semaphore tower turned abandoned ruin, home to legends, hermits, and photographers who chase its panoramic view over Palermo and the Tyrrhenian Sea.
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Semaforo Borbonico dell’Eremita: The Forgotten Watchtower Above Mondello
Before telegraph wires and radio waves, messages across Sicily once traveled hilltop to hilltop by semaphore — tall masts with pivoting arms or flags flashing coded signals over great distances.
The Semaforo dell’Eremita was part of that 19th-century optical telegraph network built under King Ferdinand II of Bourbon, around the 1840s–1850s, to connect naval outposts across the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies. From this strategic ridge overlooking Palermo’s Tyrrhenian coastline, operators relayed urgent signals between stations — warning of approaching ships or transmitting military messages in mere minutes, a true technological marvel of its age.
After Italian unification in 1861 and the arrival of electric telegraph lines, the semaphore system fell into disuse. By the late 19th century the tower was decommissioned, later serving briefly as a lookout (possibly during World War II), before being left to the wind and the sun.
The Semaforo Borbonico is a two-story rectangular stone tower with thick walls, arched windows, and a rooftop platform that once supported the signaling mast. Its name — “dell’Eremita,” meaning “of the Hermit” — perfectly suits its solitude; standing alone above the sea, it feels more like a monastery than a military post. Though time has stripped away plaster and paint, traces of ochre walls and iron fittings still reveal the craftsmanship of 19th-century Bourbon builders.
Today, the tower stands within the Riserva Naturale Orientata Capo Gallo, protected but unrestored. Local volunteers and hiking groups occasionally clear brush and stabilize entrances, yet the site remains largely untouched. Regional proposals have envisioned turning it into a panoramic viewpoint or small telegraphy museum, but no funding has yet materialized.
For now, the Semaforo Borbonico dell’Eremita endures as a stable ruin — weather-beaten, photogenic, and echoing a forgotten chapter of Sicilian history when Palermo’s hills once spoke in flags.
The Hermit of the Telegraph: Isravele and His Two Dogs on Monte Gallo
Every mountain has its legend — and on Monte Gallo, above the turquoise bay of Mondello and overlooking Palermo, that legend still breathes through one man: Isravele.
For decades, locals have spoken of him as “l’eremita del telegrafo” — the Hermit of the Telegraph — a self-styled recluse and outsider artist who turned the abandoned Semaforo Borbonico dell’Eremita into both a home and a living artwork.
Who Is Isravele?
Born in 1950 and once a bricklayer in Palermo’s ZEN district, Isravele (born Giovanni Bonanno) left city life in the 1980s after a dream that, he said, called him to the mountain.
By 1997 he had settled inside the ruined semaphore tower on Monte Gallo, without electricity or running water, creating what he called l’Eremo e la Via Santa — the Hermitage and the Holy Way. Inside the tower and along the rocky path, he built intricate mosaics from sea-washed stones, ceramics, glass, and fragments of newspaper.
His chosen name carries meaning: Isravele reversed reads elevarsi — “to rise” or “to elevate oneself.”
It feels deliberate — a philosophy made tangible through solitude, art, and spiritual ascent.
It’s uncertain whether the Hermit still lives on Monte Gallo.
Accounts on Google Reviews vary widely — many describe him as a gentle, soft-spoken man, offering herbs or a quiet nod to respectful hikers. His quiet presence once seemed to protect the old semaphore from vandalism, giving it a strange kind of afterlife — a living soul inside a forgotten monument.
But there are also a few more troubling reports. One reviewer in August 2025 wrote:
⚠️ Google Review (August 2025):
“Warning, don’t visit this place. The Eremit’s dogs noticed us when approaching the premise.
A couple of minutes later he was throwing stones at us.
We were respectfully hiking next to the Semaforo when, all of a sudden, rocks were thrown our way.”
Such contrasting experiences suggest caution.
If you plan to hike there, stay on the trail, avoid the fenced area, and treat the place with respect.
The mountain is wild, the tower fragile, and the story still unfolding.
During our visit in mid-October 2025, we didn’t meet the Hermit himself, but we did meet one of the two dogs that many hikers mention.
She was a friendly, gentle dog, clearly a little hungry, so we shared some snacks with her before continuing our way down.
If you plan to hike there, bring something for the dogs — and perhaps for the Hermit himself, if he’s still there.
Hiking Trail to Semaforo Borbonico (Monte Gallo)
The trail begins at Via del Semaforo in Partanna-Mondello. At the gate you’ll see a green warning sign reading “Attenzione! Area percorsa da incendio” — meaning the area was affected by fire and there’s a risk of falling rocks and trees, with an official “Divieto di accesso” (no entry). Despite this, locals assured us that everyone hikes there, and we met plenty of walkers on the route.
This is an unmanaged trail, so there are no facilities, signage, or water sources — you’re hiking at your own risk.
The route is wide and straightforward: it starts as a paved road past the eerie abandoned Pizzo Sella villas, then turns into a rocky dirt path climbing through pine forest with open views over Mondello Bay.
You might encounter two dogs often seen near the top — they’re usually calm but clearly hungry. It’s a good idea to bring some food or snacks for them (and perhaps for the hermit himself, if he’s still living there).
With good shoes, enough water, and an early start, this hike offers a unique mix of views, solitude, and local legend — all just above Mondello.
Quick facts
- Start: Gate at Via del Semaforo, Partanna-Mondello (approx 38.2050, 13.3090).
- Distance / time: 5.5–6 km round trip, 2.5–3.5 hrs without long stops.
- Elevation gain: ~500–600 m.
- Difficulty: Moderate (fitness, not technical). Wide track most of the way.
Navigation & safety
- Main track is obvious; signage is sparse. Download an offline GPX/map if you plan any detours (e.g. Torre Amari or forest loop).
- Cliffs near the summit: great views but unfenced edges — mind kids and photo stops near drop-offs.
- After rain: rocks get slick; dirt sections can be muddy.
- Heat: biggest hazard. Start early morning, pace yourself, and take shade breaks.
- A few Google reviews mention encounters with the hermit or his dogs — one even reported stones being thrown from the top when approaching the Semaforo. Others describe calm visits and friendly dogs. Approach respectfully and stay on the main path.
Getting there
- From Mondello (on foot/bike): Head to Via Grotte Partanna → Via del Semaforo (allow 30–40 min uphill walk to the gate).
- By car/taxi: You can drive partway up the lower paved section, but the road quickly deteriorates (narrow, potholes). Most people park low and walk. Expect taxis to drop you at the bottom. Parking at the top is extremely limited.